Every year, the watchmaking industry celebrates creativity and ingenuity with the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG) or the so-called “Oscars of the Watchmaking Industry” – see the report for the 2019 edition here. The most advanced, the most innovative and the most creative timepieces will be awarded prizes at the GPHG 2020. Before the ceremony takes place (November 12, 2021), we’re bringing you, hot off the press, the complete list of finalists selected by the Jury. Only six watches remain in each of the 14 categories, and here they are.
Note: if you want to share your predictions with us, feel free to use to comment box at the end of this article.
Ladies
Women’s watches comprising the following indications only: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases; may be adorned with a maximum 8-carat gemsetting.
- Beauregard Lili
- Bovet 1822 Miss Audrey
- Chanel Mademoiselle Privé Bouton perle
- Dior Montres Dior Grand Bal Ruban
- Hermès Arceau Petite Lune Jeté de diamants et saphirs
- Piaget Limelight Gala Precious Dégradé de Saphirs
Ladies’ Complication
Women’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g. annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases, digital or retrograde time display, world time, second time zone or other types of models) and do not fit the definition of the Ladies’ and Mechanical Exception categories.
- Bulgari Serpenti Seduttori Tourbillon
- Charles Girardier Tourbillon Signature Mystérieuse « fleur de sel »
- Jacob & Co Astronomia Fleurs de Jardin Rainbow
- Maurice Lacroix Masterpiece Embrace
- Piaget Altiplano Tourbillon
- Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Ballerine Musicale Diamant
Men’s
Men’s watches comprising the following indications only: hours, minutes, seconds, simple date (day of the month), power reserve, classic moon phases; may be adorned with a maximum 5-carat gemsetting.
- Bulgari Octo Finissimo S Blue Dial
- De Bethune DB28XP Starry Sky
- Laurent Ferrier Classic Origin Green
- Petermann Bédat Seconde morte
- Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor Squelette Manufacture-Only Carbonium® Edition
- Voutilainen 28SC
Men’s Complication
Men’s watches that are remarkable in terms of their mechanical creativity and complexity. These watches may feature all kinds of classic and/or innovative complications and indications (e.g. world time, dual-time or other types of models) and do not fit the definition of the Men’s and Mechanical Exception categories.
- Bovet 1822 Récital 27
- De Bethune DB28XP Tourbillon
- Girard-Perregaux Quasar Light
- Greubel Forsey Hand Made 1
- Hermès Slim d’Hermès GMT
- MB&F HM10 Bulldog Ti
Iconic
Men’s or ladies’ watches from an emblematic collection that has been exercising a lasting influence on watchmaking history and the watch market for more than 25 years.
- Breitling Chronomat B01 42
- Bulgari Aluminium Chronograph
- Girard-Perregaux Laureato Infinity Edition (42mm)
- IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Chronographe
- Piaget Altiplano Origin Automatic
- Seiko Professional Diver’s 1000M
Chronometry
Mechanical watches comprising at least one tourbillon and/or a special escapement and/or another development improving chronometry (precision timekeeping). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
- Armin Strom Gravity Equal Force Stainless steel
- Bernhard Lederer Central Impulse Chronometer
- Brivet-Naudot Eccentricity
- Chronométrie Ferdinand Berthoud FB 2RE.2
- H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Cylindrical Tourbillon H. Moser X MB&F
- Theo Auffret Tourbillon à Paris
calendar and astronomy
Men’s mechanical watches comprising at least one calendar and/or astronomical complication (e.g. date, annual calendar, perpetual calendar, equation of time, complex moon phases display, etc.). Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
- Behrens Apolaire
- Chopard L.U.C Perpetual Twin
- IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Yacht Club Moon & Tide
- Parmigiani Fleurier Calendrier Perpétuel Hégirien
- Sarpaneva Watches Lunations Harvest Moon
- Vacheron Constantin Overseas Quantième Perpétuel Ultra-Plat Squelette
mechanical exception
Men’s and/or ladies’ watches featuring a special mechanism, such as an innovative or sophisticated display, an automaton, a striking or any other acoustic function, a belt-driven movement or any other original and/or exceptional horological concept.
- Armin Strom Minute Repeater Resonance
- Bovet 1822 Récital 26 Brainstorm Chapter 2
- Jacob & Co Bugatti Chiron
- MB&F Legacy Machine Thunderdome
- Piaget Altiplano Ultimate Concept
- Ressence Type 2A
chronograph
Mechanical watches comprising at least one chronograph indication. Additional indications and/or complications are admissible.
- Atelier de Chronométrie Chronographe à rattrapante
- Breitling Top Time Limited Edition
- H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic
- Kurono Tokyo by Hajime Asaoka Kurono Chronograph 1
- Louis Moinet Memoris Superlight
- Parmigiani Fleurier Tondagraph GT Acier
diver’s
Watches linked to the world of diving, whose functions, materials and design are suited to this activity.
- Breitling Superocean Automatic 48 Boutique Edition
- Doxa SUB 300 Carbon Aqua Lung US Divers
- Grand Seiko 9RA5 Professional Diver’s 600M
- Ming 18.01 H41
- Reservoir Hydrosphere Bronze x Revolution “The Maldives Edition”
- Ulysse Nardin Diver X Cape Horn
JEWELLERY
Watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of the art of jewellery and gemsetting, and also distinguished by the choice of stones.
- Bulgari Serpenti Misteriosi Intrecciati
- Chopard Magari
- Dior Montres Dior Grand Soir Reine des Abeilles
- Jacob & Co The Mystery Tourbillon Full Ruby
- Piaget Limelight Gala Haute Joaillerie Opale Noire
- Van Cleef & Arpels Montre Frivole Secrète
ARTISTIC CRAFTS
Watches demonstrating exceptional mastery of one or several artistic techniques such as enamelling, lacquering, engraving, guilloché (engine-turning), skeleton-working, etc.
- Andersen Genève Heures Sautantes 40ème Anniversaire
- Bovet 1822 Amadéo Tourbillon Squelette 7 Jours
- Dior Montres Dior Grand Bal Plume
- Hermès Arceau Into the Canadian Wild
- Jacob & Co Astronomia Sky Phoenix
- Van Cleef & Arpels Lady Arpels Soleil Féerique
PETITE AIGUILLE
Watches with a retail price between CHF 4,000 and CHF 10,000. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.
- Bell & Ross BR 05 Skeleton
- Breitling Superocean Heritage ’57 Limited Edition II
- Habring2 Chrono Felix Panda
- IWC Schaffhausen Portugieser Automatic 40
- Sarpaneva Watches Sarpaneva x Moomin
- Trilobe Secret
CHALLENGE
Watches with a retail price under CHF 4,000. Smartwatches are admissible in this category.
- Behrens Rotary
- Breitling Endurance Pro
- Kurono Tokyo by Hajime Asaoka Kurono Anniversary Green ‘森:Mori’
- Louis Erard Le Régulateur Louis Erard x Alain Silberstein
- Ming 27.01 Ultra Plat
- Tudor Fifty-Eight
Along with these 14 clearly defined categories, the GPHG 2020 will also give an award to watches falling in these categories:
Innovation Prize
This prize rewards the best watch, presented in one of the fourteen categories, that offers an innovative vision of time measurement (in terms of technique, design, materials, etc.) and opens up new development pathways for the watchmaking art. This prize is discretionary and the jury will decide whether there are grounds for awarding it in 2020.
Audacity Prize
This prize rewards the best watch, presented in one of the fourteen categories, which features a non-conformist, offbeat approach to watchmaking. It is intended to foster creative audacity. This prize is discretionary and the jury will decide whether there are grounds for awarding it in 2020.
“Horological Revelation” Prize
This prize rewards a watch, created by a young brand (less than ten years of existence since its first model was commercialised) and entered in one of the fourteen categories. It may also reward the mechanical creation of a young talent, in the event that none of the competing watches should be considered worthy of receiving this prize. This prize is optional and the jury will decide whether it should be awarded in 2020.
Smartwatch Prize
This prize rewards the best smartwatch entered in the competition. This prize is discretionary, the Jury will decide whether there are grounds for awarding it in 2020.
Special Jury Prize
This prize rewards a personality, institution or initiative that has played a fundamental role in promoting high-quality watchmaking. It cannot be awarded to a watch, nor to a brand as such.
Aiguille d’Or
The best of the show, the “Palme d’Or” of the watchmaking industry, a.k.a. the GPHG 2020 prize for the best watch of the year.
More details at www.gphg.org.